Clogher Heritage Centre

Following in the footsteps of st patrick clogher walk a market leader

WALKING tourism is the key to success for rural areas and one of the market leaders in this sector is the Clogher Bog Eco Walk, writes Tom Gillespie.

This is an 8km national waymarked loop walk located close to Ballintubber Abbey and covers varying landscape of hedgerows, woodland and bogland, following quiet country lanes and bog tracks. The terrain is flat and uneven and walking boots are recommended. It takes about three hours to complete.

I met with Martin Larkin, administrator, and Brian Hoban, tourism administrator and events co-ordinator with the Clogher Environmental Company, who brought me on a tour of the route.

The first section takes you through some areas of fenland and along bog tracks through a lowland blanket bog, a rare habitat in the EU and one that is becoming increasingly scarce and under threat in Ireland. This living, breathing, unspoilt bogland is teeming with wildlife. There is a wonderful variety of birdlife, plant and animal life, and this is displayed through a number of interpretive panels along the walk.

The next section takes you along quiet country lanes where you can admire trees and flora of the hedgerow before entering active farmland. We followed a section of the ancient Tochar that once led from Rathcroghan in Co. Roscommon to the ritual site of Cruachan Aigle (Croagh Patrick). This section is through hazel woodland and has an amazing variety of flora.

The final section brings you to an early Patrician church at Drum Cemetery and in the adjoining lands there are the remains of a caiseal, once a resting place for pilgrims making their way to Croagh Patrick.

Many simple inscribed stones mark the resting place of victims of the great famine. You can even see what is believed to be the imprint of St. Patrick’s footprint on a stone behind the graveyard. A quiet boreen leads you back to the starting point at Clogher heritage complex.

Places of interest along the trail include Clogher Heritage Cottage, a one-bedroom labourer’s cottage which includes a cailleach (bed in an alcove), a loft and a display of churns. Adjacent to it is Staunton’s Forge in Newtown which was rebuilt from a ruin. The site and ruin were donated by the Staunton family of Ballyheane. The old forge was in the family since the 19th century. Patrick Staunton, head of the household, was listed in the 1901 census as a ‘blacksmith and farmer’. His son Richard was also listed as a blacksmith. Another feature is Fortlawn ringfort. These are probably the most common archaeological feature in Ireland, with approximately between 40,000 and 45,000 countrywide. They were generally constructed during the Iron Age/early Christian period as a single family homestead.

Fortlawn House is a period two-storey house built circa 1748. The first recorded owners were the Mulrooneys, a Protestant family who lived in Fortlawn until the 1940s. Joseph Blowick, leader of Clann Na Talmhan and Minister for Lands, bought the property in 1945. It was sold in 1962 to Padraig and Bernie McGreal, the present owners.

Donamona Castle was originally a Bourke stronghold. In the early 15th century the O’Kellys of Ui Maine occupied it. In 1574 Richard Mac Davy Mac Parson (Bourke) is listed as the owner. The Indenture of Composition of Mayo was ratified here by Sir Richard Bingham.

Martin Larkin said: “The walks from the grotto and the forge in Clogher began some years ago with the Mayo in Motion initiative when Charlie Lambert was in charge. Then it became the Mayo Sports Partnership. Throughout those years it was organised by Mary McDonagh, Agnes Larkin and Veronica Cavanagh-Larkin. They continue to play a big part in it today. Brian Hoban has been assisting Veronica for the past three years.

“It has been successful. We have highlighted the flora and fauna as well as areas of heritage and history. It is said that St. Patrick passed through Drum Graveyard in 440 on his way to Croagh Patrick. There is an old druid’s grave there as well as a caiseal, once a resting place for pilgrims making their way to Croagh Patrick.”

Martin continued: “In later years we have been doing promotions to establish some form of walking tourism through the area, which in turn would lead to people benefiting in some small way, like through B&Bs. In May, June, July and August there are always cars parked here with people doing the walk.”

Brian Hoban added: “I organise different events to highlight the facilities we have here, like heritage, walking promotions, and fitness walking. At the moment we are involved with a series of Operation Transformation walks. We have a major event in August where we have a re-enactment of the old tradition of turf cutting. The idea of a heritage centre like this is to preserve some of the folklore and traditions associated with life in this part of rural Mayo.”

Brian does guided nature walks. The focus of the walks depends on the clients. He added: “There are many aspects through which walks can be promoted. In rural tourism sometimes you have to focus on these niche events.  Sometimes we have to go for an angle that the bigger tourism events don’t offer. Over the years we have built up quite a reputation and our website is probably one of the best heritage sites you can get.”

Martin added: “Some years ago the loop was in a state of bad repair. We approached some councillors and they gave some money for improving the road. It then took on a life of its own. It is a nice walk. It is not a boring walk. People like it.”

The village of Newtown, Clogher, would have been formed as a result of evictions, he said, where people were evicted from the richer lands down to the bogs of Clogher. “They say they were sent to the bogs and marshes of Clogher. There were so many in the area that it became known as the ‘new town’.”