An interesting and beautiful journey
History of the old Midland Great Western Railway
PART THREE
By Tom Gillespie
THE railway journey from Mulranny to Achill Sound is interesting and beautiful almost throughout. Onwards for miles the sea-scapes are delightful as we look across the intricate inland sea, the northern expansion of Achill Sound, and over the flat of Erris to the Nephin-Beg peaks.
Then as we trend westward, the unmistakable cone of Slievemore becomes conspicuous, and will be scarcely lost sight of til we reach its foot at Dugort.
The terminus of the railway, Achill Sound, is close to the Sound, or waterway, between the mainland an Achill Island.
Achill Island is the largest island on the Irish coast. Its is in the shape of an irregular right-angled triangle. The total area is about 55 square miles, and from Bull’s Mouth, on the east, to the extremity of Achill Head, on the west, the distance in a straight line is 14 miles. From north to south, facing the mainland, it is 11 miles. The population in 1911 was 5,337.
While there is still plenty to remind one of the old Achill of former days, improvements are manifest.
The island is now well supplied with roads and slate-roofed dwellings are beginning to be fairly common, though rarely adopted thus far by the true sons of the soil.
Off the Irish coast there are yet to be found remote islands with an exceedingly primitive civilisation. Achill owes much of its interest to the fact that it exhibits a similar state of things in process of transition.
Of Achill’s little town, Dugort (8.5 miles by road from the Sound), the late Mr. Alfred Austin wrote: "A more perfect place of holiday resort it would not be possible to imagine. There are fine yellow sands, where children may make their mimic dykes and fortresses; mountains of moderate height … for the young and vigorous to ascend; east hill foot-tracks for the weaker brethren; fishing, either is smooth or rolling water, form those who love the indolent rocking, or the rough rise and fall of the sea."
At Dugort we have probably seen specimens of Achill amethysts. At Dugort every urchin has small ones at our service. They are real amethysts enough, that is mauve-coloured quartz crystals, and often of real beauty, but very different from the precious stone, the original amethyst, which is a purple variety of sapphire. So far as we know, these Achill stones are only found in the island at Keem.
Keem Bay is quite a gem. To look down upon it is to behold most picturesquely; but it is from the little bit of sand at its head that we best realise the sequestered character of the spot.
Above the tiny bay are great, steep, brown-grey slopes, the southern flank of Croaghaun, 2,192 feet, and its spurs descend abruptly, and shut in the bay on the east.
Immediately above it, on the west, is the bold and lofty ridge, that on its seaward face continues the magnificent range of cliffs, extending from Moyteogen Head – the west horn of Keem Bay – to Achill Head.
Keem Bay is famous as a salmon fishery, and in spring some of the fishermen occupy the cabins here, but only so long as the fishing lasts.
Croaghaun should be climbed by Slievemore village and the Martello Tower, and the descent made to Dooagh direct.
If, however, the tourist has already visited that part of the island, he cannot do better than make his way back by the ridge dominating the N. coast, and then from a little E. of the Martello Tower strike boldly over Slievemore, 2,204 feet, whence the drop down to Dugort is quite simple.
From Dugort we ascend the road and soon find ourselves at Slievemore Village. From the far end of the village we take an obvious route up the ridge to the east of the Martello Tower, and then plod westwards.
A bit of boggy ground that is bad travelling cannot be avoided, but the going improves presently. The ascent is fairly continuous and not severely steep. But for the glorious views it might, perhaps, be called dull.
When, however, we gain the crest of the coast ridge – the N.E. shoulder of Croaghaun – fatigue is forgotten as we make for the great boss that forms the actual summit - 2,192 feet.
Except Slieve League, there is no rival cliff in western Europe to vie with that one on which we now stand. The whole of Achill, except what Slievemore hides, is seen at our feet.
Blacksod Bay and the Mullet, west Mayo, including Nephin, and, sweeping around to the southward, the monarchs of Connemara, are all in sight.
To the north-west is the lighthouse of Blackrock, but finest of all, close at hand, is the grand stretch of cliffs, extending northward to Saddle Head.
If our return to civilisation is to be by Dooagh direct, then the descent will be conveniently begun in earnest from the eastern shoulder, avoiding the combe at the head of Lough Acorrymore.
The preferable route for the untired traveller will undoubtedly be to descent along the coast ridge, north, until Bunnafreva Lough is passed, and thence eastward along thew ridge.
The best approach to this monarch of Achill mountains (2,204 feet) is by a lane just beyond the Slievemore Hotel, and on the near side of the Coastguard Station.
Once clear of the enclosed land, the mountain side becomes dry under foot, and you mount as directly as you please.
When some 700 feet have been accomplished, you are clear of the hill opposite Dugort, and Blacksod Bay is fully revealed.
The N.E. face of Slievemorte is fairly rugged, and a view of this will not take you out of your way.
As the upper part of the mountain is approached, heather gives place to rock strewn steeps, but there is no difficulty except the trial to wind and muscles.
From Dugort to the summit will not take more than two hours of leisurely climbing.
These caves are at the N. foot of Slievemore, about 1.5 to two miles from the strand. They are exceedingly fine, and seals are by no means scarce, though sometimes the traveller may not have the luck to happen upon them in their elusive haunts.
A very enjoyable outing is to drive or ride to Mweelin, and thence ascend the Dooega flank the Menawn range. Follow that northward till you can descent to Dookinelly on Keel Strand, whence, before returning to Dugort, one may revisit the flamed Cathedral Rocks.
Concluded.